Okra Quick Reference Growing Chart Plant Type: Get more details on okra harvesting here. And if you have planted open pollination varieties, remember allow a few to grow to maturity to save their seeds for next year’s planting. If you pick ever other day and keep on top of them, your pods should keep blooming and produce tasty pods all summer long. Feed with a balanced vegetable fertilizer throughout the growing season, per package instructions. Sow more seeds than you need, and when sprouts have their first true leaves, thin them out, keeping only the strongest.Īpply a layer of mulch around your plants to inhibit weed growth and aid in moisture retention. Tall types reach up to four feet in diameter, and this knowledge will aid in spacing your plants in the garden. Keep in mind that okra doesn’t take well to transplanting, so you’re likely to lose some seedlings if you go with this planting method.īe sure to read seed packages for specific instructions, and for details on plant heights and widths.
I like to use egg cartons or peat pots I can place directly into the ground, because okra has fragile roots. Transplant sturdy seedlings to the outdoor garden around the last frost date. Since the soil needs to be warm to encourage germination, consider using a heat mat. You may also start seeds indoors up to two months before the last average frost date in spring. In cold regions, like mine in the Northeast, you’ll have to wait a little longer for the soil to warm up enough for direct sowing outdoors, at least two weeks after the last frost date, maybe more. Around mid-summer, you may prune tall varieties to encourage further growth, and you can also choose to plant a fresh crop at that time for a late harvest. In warm climates, direct sow in the early spring garden when soil temperatures are at least 60☏, to a depth of about one inch. Prepare seeds for planting by scraping each lightly with a nail file and soaking in tap water overnight.
0 kommentar(er)
